Sushu's Travel Journal

July 16, 2011

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Filed under: Europe,Middle East — Tags: , — admin @ 11:58 pm

So I am in Milan now. Took a long nap, and then explored the Duomo a bit. It’s rather impressive. After a quiet dinner in a small bar, I got back to the hostel and now I’m taking a relaxing evening to unwind a bit from the whirlwind of Turkey. Since I am now destiny my own schedule again, and still uninterested in night life, I can take more time in the evening to write and process things.

The following are a few thoughts, drawing overly large conclusions based on a pittance of anecdotal experience.

Italy is much less stressful than Turkey to travel in, for a variety of reasons.
Even though I don’t really speak Italian, as a Romance language it is close enough to Spanish that I can figure out the basic structure of sentences and catch enough cognates to make navigating through various situations much easier. Turkish is based on agglutination (it’s like a whole language of saying “admirably” and “argumentatively”, except longer) and the word order is subject object verb, so when I was in Turkey the language posed a greater challenge. I wasn’t even sure about the sentence structure for asking questions. Even Saying “Please” and “thank you” was difficult. That made me much shyer about asking for things, affecting my entire mindset. There were also many cultural expectations that I wasn’t sure about. I didn’t want to offend people by wearing or doing something inappropriate, so I was constantly checking myself.

The cities that we visited also varied in Tourist-readiness. I’m not just talking about the ability to speak English, but also the attitude towards tourists. There is a certain set of western tourist expectations of courtesy and service. In Istanbul and Antalya, they were used to tourists, so they knew not to push too hard, that in fact a soft sell is more effective. In Alanya, there was more of the hard sell, the penny-pinching and money grubbing… It’s the discovery that you can charge tourists for everything, and deciding to milk it for what it’s worth…not yet fully realizing the symbiotic relationship of the tourism industry. But it’s not just our expectations of the tourism industry, but also the local level of comfort in dealing with tourists. The stares and muttering aside, there was also the trepidation. Between Russia, Croatia, and Turkey, I knew from experience how much can be conveyed through simple gestures and pantomime, but in Konya we had situations where the waiters didn’t come to take our order because they were worried that they would have to speak English.

When it was just Joanne and I, it was also harder because of all the questions about where we’re from (no where we’re really from), and all of the konnichiwas that we had to field. In contrast, I see Chinese people all the time in Italy. Of course, I get confused when I see people of different races in these different contexts because I don’t know their context. For example, I saw a bunch of black people in the park today. Do they consider themselves Afro-Italians? Libyan-Italians? Tourists? Immigrants? Just plain Italian? Are they Christian? Are they discriminated against? Are they expected to work in a specific job sector? For example I haven’t seen any Chinese laundry businesses here in Italy, but plenty of Chinese operated jewelry wholesalers.

Being in Turkey also made me think a bit about tolerance vs. acceptance. In Istanbul, but also in Konya, I see a range of clothing that is accepted. for example, I saw two veils in a school tour group who were clearly best friends. One was in a head to toe hijab, and the other was wearing skinny jeans. I did tend to see less thigh and less hair, but in general,there is a range of clothing difference that is just accepted, in the “okay, you decide to interpret the Koran this way, that’s fine” or the “you just happen to be more religious than me” sort of way. It’s accepted that some people would go to every prayer and some people don’t go to any. And some are Jews and others are Christian. But I feel like this sort of acceptance is different from the whole tolerance message that I learned in American schools. tolerance seems to be “You don’t have to like it,but they have a right to do this.”. Whereas the message of acceptance might be more like “We’re just different people living in the same world.”. I’m not saying that Turks were uniformly more accepting, but that it was interesting to experience a completely different set of social rules and assumptions. I feel like with the help of the Internet, it is easier to avoid tolerance situations. If you don’t like what some people are doing or saying, you can just move… To a different city, or a different Internet forum, etc. But you’re not tolerating them, and you’re not accepting them…. You’re just avoiding them and meeting only in confrontational situations.

Speaking of different social assumptions, it’s interesting to see the men/women divide in Turkey. In the US we are used to thinking of women as nurturing, in supportive and service roles, whereas men are active,doing the hard labor, bringing home the bacon. In Turkey, however, it seems that the divide is between private and public. Men present the public face. Men are often in service jobs, whereas Much of the farming is done by women. Women make the carpets in the privacy of their home, men sell them. Women are to be protected and cared for, much like America, but for slightly different reasons.

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